The resurgence of Venice’s prized dorona grape


He realized how the vines wanted to be planted far aside, to permit the roots to develop sideways to keep away from the saltwater; and the way wells needed to be dug lots of of ft deep to succeed in the contemporary water wanted to flush the vineyards. Bisol discovered a medieval monastery on the close by island of Mazzorbo with a walled winery and put to work what he had realized. Ten years and far experimentation later, the primary classic of his Venissa wine was produced.

Gianluca’s son, Matteo Bisol, now oversees operations at Venissa, and he met me off the boat to point out me round Mazzorbo. In distinction to the tumbledown vineyards of San Michele, Venissa is a swanky industrial enterprise – a Michelin-starred restaurant and opulent lodgings have been added to their portfolio in recent times. Nevertheless, they share one in all Laguna nel Bicchiere’s elementary rules. “We’re actually severe in regards to the high quality of the wine,” Matteo advised me. “However for us, it represents one thing means greater: bringing again part of the historical past of Venice to the lagoon after we nearly misplaced this wine.”

The rediscovery of the dorona has ignited a revival in Venetian wine. Laguna nel Bicchiere now grows a mix of dorona and different, non-indigenous, grapes, and produces mixed-grape wines. Venissa’s whites are made with 100% dorona grapes, and their winery is the one one devoted solely to its industrial manufacturing. The constraints of the lagoon imply it’ll all the time stay a boutique enterprise; the property produces 3,500 bottles per 12 months, that are offered primarily within the fast space.

Venissa’s dorona wine has received approval for its full physique and daring, dry style, regarded as very comparable – due to the dorona grape’s distinctive profile and conventional, natural rising strategies – to the wine so prized by the doges. It carries an unmistakable trace of saltiness, and pairs extraordinarily effectively with the lagoon components served in Venissa’s restaurant, like oysters, lavender and Sant’Erasmo honey.


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